Kohgiluyeh and Boyer-Ahmad

From Ariobarzanes to Ta Moradi: A Road Travel to History of Yasuj

The roads in Kohgiluyeh and Boyer-Ahmad Province are amazingly beautiful in a way that when you start driving in them, you forget the destination and get lost wandering and watching the landscape. My trip to the province was in fact a road trip to enjoy the natural beauties of the area. But to my surprise, the trip had more profound impact on me and led me to much deeper insight about the history of the province.

Yasuj is the capital of Kohgiluyeh and Boyer-Ahmad Province in which we slept the night and the early morning of next day, we went to city’s Ariobarzanes square. Yasuj municipality has erected a statue of Ariobarzanes in the square to pay tribute to an ancient Iranian hero. Ariobarzanes which in Farsi means exalting the Aryans was name of an Iranian general, a Satrap of Persis who led the last stand of the Iranian army at the Battle of the Persian Gate against King Alexander the Macedonian in the winter of 330 BC. After 30 days of resistance against the Ancient Macedonians, he was then killed together with his soldiers in the battle near Yasuj.

From Yasuj we then headed to Sepidar and from there to Tang-e Ta Moradi. Tang-e Ta Moradi water fall is located in 55 kilometers of Yasuj to Gachsaran road and above 15 meters height. There are other four waterfalls above 8 to 10 meters around there, an oak forest and a small pool with very clear and cold water. The water which flows through the mountain caves and drips from the roof of the caves is nice to see and listen to.

We had a brief breakfast and then decided to continue our trip. However, we found out that our car has broken down and we had to send it back to Yasuj to repair. A group of friends took a passing car to reach the waterfall but I decided to walk in the nature with the rest of them to go to the valley later on.

The roads were quite and there were not many tourists around. I don’t know whether it was fortunate or unfortunate. Maybe unfortunate because that time of year in Nowruz holidays, every touristic hub in Iran is occupied by Iranian travelers but not Yasuj, the Eco capital of Iran and not that particular beautiful road in Kohgiluyeh and Boyer-Ahmad. Fortunate because the place was truly noiseless that let us hear the bird songs.

Although Tang-e Ta Moradi (Tang means valley in Lori language) was once not as mute as it is now. Ta Moradi war between Iranian Royal Army and the Buyer Ahmad tribes took its name from this area as the battlefield. The Buyer Ahmad tribes who revolted against the cruelty of Royal government in the 30s, finally won over them in a big battle in this valley.

After sometime wandering around, we got a car to join our friends. I had a very bad flu from the days before. For not losing the trip, I had taken few pills and those made me very dizzy. When we reached the waterfall, I almost fainted while getting out the car. My friends helped me to lay on a ground cloth and I sank into deep sleep. When I woke up,  had some Ash for lunch, an Iranian thick soup, good to heal the flu. Then I noticed the waterfall, beautiful but risky climbing to. I did not take the risk of course and only photographed from far.

From Ta Moradi to Basht, we passed a river on the border of Kohgiluyeh and Boyer-Ahmad and Fars province. There were several ancient bridges built in the area, dating back to Achaemenid and Sassanid dynasties. The last bridge named Perim belongs to Sassanids and the remaining consists of 13 arches and stone columns.

We continued driving in the Basht road but not to reach the city yet. Instead we searched for another historical site in Shush-e Sofla village. In between the green fields and hills, there were erected Do Goor-e Do Pa, consisted of two very high stone-made columns which is said to be remains of an ancient Fire temple. But we met the villagers and they told us a different story, a local narrative of a passionate love between a girl and a guy who were cursed by an old witch to be forever transformed to stone columns and remained so until today.

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